Newspaper Archive of
Beverly Hills Weekly
Beverly Hills, California
July 21, 1994     Beverly Hills Weekly
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July 21, 1994

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BEVERLY HILLS NEWS ............. 2 "I eeool • eeo • • • ee • eeo eooeege • to • • • • • oeooeo eeee • • oe • • • • • ee • • • • • • eeeeeo • • eoe • oo • ee eo • eeeeo9 • eee • • • eo • • • • • • • • ee • eo • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • eeeee eeeeeeme • • • • • ee • ee Bq Sharon goorsLin eclipse the competition ? everk at West The Fer- w'#dedinhe were fortables where COUp,,. rintothe 'COmes.ith good =e. °n Ue site of the old street). , star reigned for maflre'd in )ous made b'xse years out the best at Eclipse are Shidee from U'e way the oCt- as if he's known Spago s a casual-ctc m°re formal decor for Edime. He brought m Lambert Monet, grand- son of the Impcessioeim painter, to transform e simpte design of the former Morton's, into a restaurant  spelled reo-Hollywoed glam- our. From Ale bar/lo, lhe floor siopes 9erb W into Ale dining room -- designed, I'm mxe, for grarl entrances. There are no hard edges in the etegantJy pink dining room where plush booU hug the wa, sk#ts putctuate Ue high wood ceiling, and silk-draped French doors ad to a pao. And the ubkJmXm Erpicum oversees the restaurant's cracker jack service. erded another ,oa0o alum, Serge Falesitch, as chef for Eclipse. Spago uses its woed-lxing brick oven for pizza; Eclipse uses its wood-burning brick oven to roast whole fresh fish, the restaurant's special- ty. The night I dined there, it was smashing. Dinner began with a salad of plump wild mush- rooms tossed with crisp shoestring potatoes, and seed scallops wilh a peppered sea urchin sauce. (This was the only dish I furred in amy way ; it was too salty.) 9reen-lippecl mussels were splashed with a refreshing pesto made from Italian parsley as well as 'e usual basil Pastas included creamy artichoke risotto, bow tie pasta tossed with shallEsh, orechiette cuddling with rosemary-rich duck ragout. Before we ordered, the w#ress brought around a diver tray dsplaying the day's fresh fish, their glazed ayes discreetly covered with flower petals. Our choices came back perfectly cooked: ha:k turbot, delicate John Don/, and New Zealand snapper, each served with Edipse's herb-lemon olive oil infusion. A la carte vegetabm induded superb gratins, one of garlic-graced fennel. Desserts prepared by Palrick Compas (a Michel P, Jchard-trained patsier) were as good as those of the master: a dxcolate-respberry mousse log, a velvety lemon tart, and a butter pear gmtin. The restaurant's wine list is impressive, which is no surlmise considering that Erpicum was once a sommelier, and stars in a videotape about wine. Will Eclipse eclipse the competition? I sup- pose there is room in this town fer another HoCywood restaurant wflfx)ut e likes of Spago, Le Dome, Morton's and Drai's losing customers. Stgl, atter enne fhe oeer night at F.dipe, I s two giggling co dart across the street from Morton's and duck into F.. Were they deseng Morton's for ge restaurant-of-the. roomerS, or nerety curious? Too soon to tell. "Restaurant Writers 3-Stars Award" LUNCHEON • COCKTAILS • DINNER Reservation (310) 65"/-2446 8635 WilsNm BL (West of La Cleneg8) i-i I.oI  $1im ith [astecl Garlic and Ttocadero hazily ,t* a= m msu a most peasurable TROCADERO TELEGRAMo0000 Robert Wayne Chd __ Bambi lenS ptoprietm oe _t  au Wet Sumet (213) 656-7161 TranSmicd tzom 1994 JUN 29 AM 11 comb a tv o,-L. €_.,,. p,..m and rzew . . j..,.,, S=n  .,:'w,; "-:;-,,.,,,,.ded w---’r- o  It au ou.u we- San,ch ove me S_ . _. (We mie everyone a specl cusmm BB: Best o . at th= Tocadem'o get a gnp plPI4771 MB=HOLLYWOOD CALIF i • 's " ERE llAi) AS ' sHOW. JESUS CHRIST, DOESN T HE REALIZE NOT GOING TO TAKE iT ANY LoNGER'" W,ATn.ARDtiT ,,- ABouTNELLTHEANDpHANToMWE RE,s DECISION TO cANCEL THE SEE A STAR OF YouR CALIBER .LIGHT UP , ;AE AS NORMA DESMOND. oUR RESTAURANT yOU wON'T S CRY FOR HiM. ... c.. ,o. "° IEe2: ETD BE ALL SMILES IF yOU o_ , DESERVED A FRONT ROW SEAT, SO yOU CAN GET A cLOSE'UP VIEW Oe-IURANT IN FACT. WE'VE ALREAu " r T " " HE REAL SUNSET BOULEVARD" APpETiZER. THERE'S A HOT ROLL tN IT FOR h.s FOREVER: AMRI BYRENS AND PtOBERT WAYNE THE NEW TROCADERO RESTAURANT 8280 WEST SUNSET BOULEVARD (21) 656-7161 " Af WE RECOMMEND THE BUTTERNUT" SQUASH sOUP FOR AN Q YOU, TOO, July 21-27, 1994